“Andean pipes aside, Peru has several musical guises; noisy, loping cumbia, twanging Amazonian chicha, and the earthier tones of Afro-Peruvian music, rooted in the slavery of the coast’s sugar fields. First as a musicologist and writer, later as a singer, Susana Baca has led an Afro-Peruvian revival, boosted internationally by David Byrne’s Luaka Bop label. Now 77, she is a national institution (an”