“The nineties were a great time for beat cooking, and the London-based Ninja Tune label had some strong stew, from DJ Food's tasty hors d'oeuvres, to slices from Coldcut and Funky Porcini, to The Herbaliser's homegrown selections. But that decade has passed and-- post-pot smoke and the deleterious effects of "trip-hop" on the reception of downtempo grooves-- it's hard to deny that a good chunk of i”