“Every so often, we music freaks have to fight through some tough aesthetics-- extremes of noise or kitsch, or eccentric or garble-throated singers. For some of us, just getting into country music was a struggle. But Pluxus is hard to take in a different way: Most of *European Onion* sounds just like an old video game (say, Super Mario Brothers for the 8-bit NES. The bleeps and bips can make this g”